Already worked out. Check. Already did 30 minutes on Rosetta Stone Italiano. Check. (I have a live session with my tutor scheduled for tomorrow morning at 9:00 am.) Already made progress researching where I can do a real Roman Seder -- with brother Oomps (Gregg) -- next week during Passover. Check. The question that lingers is what to do tonight.
Well, this might be tough to do when I had more serious responsibilities, but, during this anno sabatico, why not test out what I've learned to date regarding Roman cocktail culture?
As noted previously, my impression is that Italy -- and Rome in particular -- is pretty much a vino town. Cocktail aficionados are making inroads. But it is not like the US or other parts of Europe. Cocktail culture has lagged.
My research -- augmented by what a summer associate pulled together for me back in August -- is that a bar/cafe called Barnum, which is right here in Campo De'Fiore, is an exception. (See www.barnumcafe.com.) The word on the street is that Barnum is one of the best cocktail joints in Rome. I have already made Barnum a regular haunt for lunch-time and mid-afternoon. At that time, they have some daily lunch specials that are relatively healthy, they have good prices, they have excellent Wi-Fi, and they have an overall totally cool vibe. You can linger with your iPad and just browse or catch up on emails without being hassled. And the clientele is chic and fashionable. (I do my best to fit in.)
At night-time, the management changes and Barnum supposedly becomes a cocktail haven. But I had not tried them out during this hour until tonight. I am pleased to report that they did not disappoint. They passed with flying colors.
Patrick Pistolesi and Federico were tending bar. I think they are co-owners. Patrick is the flamboyant one. Very flamboyant. But, sheeeesh, he knows his cocktails. He is far more than just flash. He's got the knowledge to back it up. Federico is all business. He is the serious one. He has encyclopedic knowledge of cocktails. He pretty much has memorized all of the classic texts from the early 20th century that they have displayed on a bookshelf at the bar.
Spring may be commencing now. But it's a rainy night and it's cool out. Feels more like fall. I therefore start with a Martinez. This is not the most commonly-known cocktail. But it's one that Danny White turned me onto, and it's one of my faves. Patrick nails it. Without my asking, he goes straight for the Old Tom's gin. A good sign. Old Tom's is the definitive gin for a Martinez. I tried to pace myself, but to no avail. It was gone in just a few minutes. Here are the remnants:
I then ask Patrick about his view on Manhattans, i.e., what kind of vermouth he prefers, etc. Jackpot. Patrick has very firm views about ratios, the kinds of vermouth to use, and on and on. His passion is coming through. So I can't resist trying. Here he is preparing mine:
The Manhattan is excellent. Patrick blends different kinds of vermouth to get the balance that he believes is just right. He even adds port, something I had not previously seen. It is definitely a Manhattan. But it also has layers and notes that I had not tasted before. It's real good.
I draw the line at two drinks. I do, after all, have a 9:00 am Italian lesson. But it's a slow rainy night at Barnum, and Patrick and Federico are wanting to talk trade. I accordingly can't leave. What is an anno sabatico for if not for 2.5-hour conversations with expert bartenders about their craft?
I turn the discussion to Aviations. Not the best drink for tonight, given the chill wind in the air. But still an all-time fave, on which I have strong views. It's a tough drink to nail because -- even back home -- few bars carry creme d'violette. But Barnum has it. Man, these guys are good. The version I've learned from Spruce in SF remains my standard version, and so we discuss different views on what an Aviation should contain. Federico, ever the purist, points to some canonical texts that do not use creme d'violette. He therefore believes in using just gin, maraschino, and lemon juice. But he mixes one up that uses the creme d'violette, and all three of us agree that it is exquisite.
I do finally stump them. The Last Word -- another favorite of mine and some very close friends -- has not hit Italy. But we look it up and, sure enough, Patrick and Federico see that it is a classic from the pre-Prohibition era. Federico immediately goes to work, and we share one. They are impressed. I think I will be allowed back to Barnum. And that is the good news. Out of all the gin joints in all the towns in all the world, I can't think of one place I'd rather be.
Whether I'll be hung-over for tomorrow morning's Italian lesson is another question. But that's what anno sabaticos are for, si?
Alas, Postino in Lafayette, CA, appears to be run by cocktail Luddites. Never heard of a "Martinez," so I settled for a Grey Goose Gibson, up, with three onions.
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