Friday, May 10, 2013

Montenegro: Breathtaking!

[Written on Thursday]

A former colleague recommended that I take a side-trip from Dubrovnik and cross into Montenegro.  He told me about two towns to visit and a not-to-be-missed hotel that was close to one of them.  My internet research confirmed that Kotor and Budva are worth a visit, and that the Sveti Stefan resort is one of the world's best.

The directions were easy too -- just rent a car and head south from Dubrovnik. There's really just one road that you follow the whole way.  It's a long ride, especially given that you can't resist pulling over time-after-time to pick up your dropped jaw and to snap photos of the magical scenery.  And the ride is made even longer by the fact that -- as my friend instructed me -- you must not take the car ferry as a short-cut.  If you do that, you'll save some time; but you won't get to drive around the absolutely spectacular Bay of Kotor.  I discovered today that to miss that would be felonious.

Today was perhaps the best little one-day excursion I've ever taken.  The Bay of Kotor is certainly one of the two or three most beautiful natural sights that I have seen.  If you are ever in Dubrovnik, the Kotor/Budva/Sveti Stefan side-trip is an absolute must.  Some visuals follow.

Bay of Kotor & Kotor:

People debate whether the Bay of Kotor is a fjord.  If it is, then it is Europe's southern-most fjord.  Either way, it is stunning.  As noted above, moreover, unless you've driven this 20 times -- or you are as blind as Stevie Wonder -- you have to take the long way around.  




This is not the exact same shot as above.  I like the view so much though, that I'm including a similar angle for a second time.



To get a sense of scale, look at the little town and buildings on the right and in the center.

Kotor itself is cute too.  Like Dubrovnik, there is a walled old city ("stari grad").  The scenery around it is more impressive than the town.  But it's a good spot to take a break, walk around, and get a salad or something.



Budva:  

Budva did not impress me as much.  It's another walled old town.  There's nothing incredibly special about it, but it's again still worth a wander.  You will pass it, in any event, on your way down to the mega-resort Sveti Stefan.  I found a good bakery in Budva that had Montenegran breads and pastries.  Neither Budva nor Kotor is as polished as Dubrovnik, which brings some advantages.





Sveti Stefan:

I've never seen anything like this hotel.  It is a small private island that is connected to the mainland by a narrow little isthmus.  Mere members of the public cannot get onto the grounds -- there are guards at the isthmus.  But there is a small public beach and plaza right across from the island that offers magnificent views.  This little area is itself quite nice to lounge around by.




You can read more about Sveti Stefan here --

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sveti_Stefan

http://www.tripadvisor.com/Hotel_Review-g304097-d1549107-Reviews-Aman_Sveti_Stefan-Sveti_Stefan_Budva_Municipality.html

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