I am now in Matera, in the Basilicata region of southern Italy. Got here this afternoon after a relatively tough journey given that I didn't really go that far. On Thursday, I'll drive east for the Puglia region, where Lecce will be home base. I then fly home to Roma on Saturday night. But not for long, for I'm off next Tuesday for a week in Paris. Given all this traveling, my updates will tend to be a bit briefer. (Hold your applause, please.)
Now, Easter. My first inkling that Pasqua in Rome is a little different occurred on Saturday night. At around midnight, I walked past the relatively dumpy non-descript church that is about 100 feet from my front door. I'd never seen any activity there. But on Saturday night, there were maybe 25 people gathered at the front door of the church. Some held candles. They were all singing, and a couple of priests were leading the group. It was nice. Nothing major or grand. But it was something I'd never seen before.
On Sunday morning, I had time for a quick run before heading to dinner. I didn't expect anything novel or exciting -- I just wanted to get in 30 minutes of exercise before gorging myself. It then hit me, however. Uhhhhh, there's probably a little something going on at St. Peters.....
I ran over to the Vatican, and it was amazing. Even before I crossed the Tiber on my favorite bridge (Ponte Sant' Angelo), you could hear the liturgy being piped out across the city. And when I got close, I saw the throngs out in force. I obviously didn't care that much about all this from a theological standpoint, but running to St. Peters while thousands were there to listen to the Latin and hear the new Pope was still super cool. There was electricity in the air.
Easter Dinner. My gosh. I was told in advance that this was going to be an all-day affair. I was told ahead of time that this was a 12-hour engagement. But I truthfully did not believe it. I considered it friendly hyperbole. Wrong.
Twelve hours have never gone by so quickly. Then again, I've never had ten glasses of wine in one day. I remember sitting down after apertivos at around 2:00 pm. The next time I looked at the clock it was almost 9:00 pm. And then, sure enough, at around midnight, we finally started to leave. The time flew.
It was a very special gathering, and it's one of those days that I know I won't forget. I can't remember exactly how many we were. There were around ten of us. I'd say that we Americans (mostly from the NY area) had a plurality. But this was a truly international crowd. We were German, Turkish, Mexican, and Dutch. We were Italian Americans, Italian/Irish Americans, and me. And by the end, "we were all Austrians." (OK, sorry, that's an inside joke.) There were scores of great conversations, and tons of laughs. The food and the wine, it goes without saying, were out of this world. I think my favorite course was the 10:00 pm post-dessert pasta. I still don't know if that is an Italian custom -- or if it was just something our hosts like to do. But, man, did that hit the spot. Our generous and gracious hosts are true wine experts. Learning from them, and getting to appreciate all these delicacies, was a treat.
Easily my best Easter ever.
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