Since I arrived in March, I'd been reading about this crazy good bakery in the heart of the old Jewish Ghetto. The thing is, when you read these reviews and blog posts about this bakery Boccione (a/k/a Il Forno del Ghetto), it sounds fantastic. But, then you see the place. Let me tell you, I do not know how to say "nondescript" in Italian. However, whatever that word is, if you look it up in an Italian dictionary, I am positive that there is a picture of Boccione. Here is a picture they could use:
There is no sign. They have no website. The shop is without any visual adornment at all. Barren. Threadbare. And, if you think that the bakery itself looks unappealing, you should see the food. Everything -- and I mean everything -- is burnt. It is the antithesis of the awesome Sicilian bakeries, where -- besides tasting marvelous -- the pastries look amazing.
Anyways, I've been reading in particular about Boccione's Pizza Ebraica (i.e., "Hebrew Pizza"). I stopped by last month, but they were getting ready for Passover -- that meant no traditional baked goods. Then they were closed for Passover. Then I started traveling. But I passed by today and thought I'd give a gander. I struck gold.
Sitting in a thoroughly unappetizing platter were a whole bunch of these charred and dense-looking bricks. I asked the woman what they were, and she said a bunch of words I did not understand as well as "...Jewish pizza...." I said, "Pizza Ebraica?" She said, "si." I requested one, and also asked for a couple of little nuggets that were labeled "biscottini."
Here's what they looked like when I dashed home:
My goodness. I have never seen a bigger disconnect -- a gulf!! -- between the way a food item looks, and the way it tastes. The Pizza Ebraica was to die for. It's hard to describe, but it's dense, chewy, moist (on the inside), and filled with almonds, pine nuts, raisins, and other dried fruit. I suppose that the closest thing I've ever had to this would be classified in the US as "fruit cake." But that does not do it justice.
To be honest, this was one of my favorite food experiences in Rome. The reason is that it was different. Although Italians might look down on us, we do have some pretty good pizza in North America. (We even have good pasta dishes, but that is something I can only whisper about.....) However, I have never had anything like this. For the same reason, although I love some of the cannoli I've had here, we also have some pretty good Italian bakeries in NYC -- and I grew up eating some of the best cannoli there. On the other hand, I've seen certain Sicilian pastries here that I'd never seen in the US (e.g., the Cassata and the Dolce d'Etna), and that have blown me away. Likewise for the Pasticciotto in Lecce. Well, it was the same with the Pizza Ebraica at Boccione.
And there is more there to try. Several reliable friends have reminded me that, although the Pizza Ebraica was indeed a must, I still must sample the cherry/ricotta tarts at Boccione. I will.
You can read more at --
http://theromedigest.com/boccione-il-forno-del-ghetto/
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