So, if that is a deal-breaker for you, don't go. I can also, however, see the charm that Napoli holds for some. There's no artificial gussying up. There is squalor, for sure. But the density of humanity is vibrant and frenetic. And the food and the art and the passion and the noise and the graffiti also in their own way create a splendor of sorts.
There are, in addition, if you look for them, some small, quick moments of beauty. I tried to capture some of them.