Wednesday, March 13, 2013

Live Blogging from St. Peters (in other words, "Who Needs Anderson Cooper?")

Wow.  What a day to be in Rome.  And what a day to have your iPhone battery run out.  More on that later.

The Background:  I knew from my inside sources that there was no way anything would happen on Day 1 (Tuesday afternoon).  And my hunch that was that the morning of Day 2 (Wednesday) was still too soon.  So I went about my day.  But I then walked over to St. Peters at around 4:00 pm, when the Cards returned from lunch.  Wednesday afternoon might be the day.  

The Blow-by-Blow

4:01 pm.  This is the scene at St. Peters now.  Not much going on.  Wondering whether this is a waste of time.  



Here are some of the banks of media. 


4:04 pm.  Sky News UK just asked me if I speak English (“yes”), and if I'd be willing to be interviewed (“sure, but.....”).   Then they asked if I was Catholic (“well, I'm a Jewish atheist”).   They asked if I had any interest in the proceedings (“only to provide precise and on-the-ground reporting to my readership”).  We agreed I'd not be a good interview for them.

I’m now having some pangs of second thoughts.  Should I have volunteered to get interviewed?  Should I have “leaned in?”  You don’t get too many chances at being interviewed during papal conclaves. 

4:12 pm.  There is some security here after all.  I pass through so I can get closer to the action. 


4:18 pm.   Closer in now.  Here are those big screens.  Trying to get a picture of myself on the big screen holding my iPhone and snapping this picture.  Want one of those recursive infinite loops.  


4:23 pm.  Much closer up now.  Whatever you think of the Catholic Church, this structure is one impressive feat of architecture and art.   There can be no denying that.   Breathtaking.  Mammoth.  My pictures, of course, cannot do it justice.  The gray clouds add an ominous tone to the whole scene. 


4:30 pm.   Closer in still.  That's the roof of the Capella Sistina.  The little chimney next to the big antenna is where you want to look.  Given the grand spectacle that St. Peters is – and given the stunning interior of the Sistine Chapel – the plain bare-bones chimney on which the world now focuses is quite the contrast.  



The crowd is picking up.  Unfortunately, so is the rain. 

4:35 pm.  False alarm.  Crowd goes wild when screens show an angry bird landing on the chimney. 


4:48 pm.   You know, despite the rain, things could be worse.  Here are my two new Parisian friends.  One sister (Marion) is studying psychology and one sister (Perrine) is studying film animation.   MARion and PERrine are easy for MARc PERnick to remember.  Things are looking up. 


4:55 pm.  That security was pretty lax.  Actually, all they did was look at the throngs passing through.  Pretty crazy if you ask me.  Have they not seen Homeland?

5:05-6:00 pm.  As the sun sets, and as the lights come on, St. Peters looks better and better. 



Trust me on this one:  the pictures you see and the video footage you get on TV or on-line do not do justice to the scene.  The structure is so massive and so visually impressive.  It’s just so much better in person.  Marion and Perrine wholeheartedly agree.  

6:10-7:00 pm.  My iPhone battery has died.  (No iPhone jokes from me will be on this blog.)  No more pictures tonight.  No more real-time notes of what transpired. 

You’re not missing much.  You can predict the scene.  This is basically Marc trying to think of every French movie he’s ever seen, and every French actor/actress he knows.  Marc also trying to figure out where Marion and Perrine will be during the week in April when he’ll be in Paris.  

Note to self:  Consider getting French lessons rather than Italian lessons. 

7:07 pm.  The white smoke (“fume” in French) has arrived.  It’s bedlam.  Carnival atmosphere.  It goes without saying that this place is jam-packed right now.  You can hardly move.  Even for a Jewish atheist, it’s pretty darn cool. 

7:15-8:15 pm.  The waiting is the hardest part.  The anticipation is building and building.  It’s an interminable wait.  The rain, however, has stopped.  Divine intervention?   The Swiss Guards come out and add to the pomp and circumstance.  When all those Cardinals come out onto the balconies to the left and right of center stage, it’s incredibly cool.  The crowd is going crazy.   Flags waving everywhere.  In my mind, all I can think is “U-S-A.....U-S-A…..!”

Highlight of this waiting period was that my second chance arrived.   A reporter from the NYC affiliate of ABC News shows up right next to us.  I say I’m from NY too.  She shoves the camera in my face, and starts the Q&A:   

Q:  Where are you from?
A:  The 5 Towns….North Woodmere on Long Island.  

Q:  Why are you here?
A:  I’m here in Rome for an extended vacation.  

Q:  Are you Roman Catholic?
A:  No, I’m actually a Jewish atheist.  

Q:  Oh, really……  [With surprise…..]  How come you’re here watching?  
A:  This is history and that it's amazing to witness.  

Q:  Are you pulling for the cardinals from the US?
A:  Yes, definitely, especially the NYC cardinal.  

Q:  Why do you think an American cardinal would be good?
A:  It would symbolize that perhaps the Church will become more modernized and move forward. 

Q:  What do you think that the new Pope will mean for Jewish/Catholic relations?
A:  Well, Jewish/Catholic relations are quite good.  So, the new Pope might not change much.  But give us the guy from NYC, and things will get even better!

8:15 pm.  The new Pope comes out.  I can’t understand much that’s being said because it’s all in Latin (or is that Italian?).  But the crowd is going absolutely berserk.  In terms of spectacle, they’ve got us, don’t they?  Our inauguration is nice.  It is.  But this blows it away.  The grandeur of the setting, the centuries of tradition, etc., etc.  This was fab. 

P.S.  Sorry about the lack of photos.  No money shots.  The phone really died on me.  We continued to take pictures with Marion’s camera.  Marion and Perrine will send some to me after they return to Paris.  I will update this post then. 

P.P.S.  Anderson Who?????

5 comments:

  1. Nice post!
    At the height of the time spent together!

    We send you the pictures this weekend! We just arrived in Paris (covered with snow!) You're welcome.
    To wait, here are some links as promised.

    My blog: http://perrinebayssat.blogspot.fr/
    Pasta that make you laugh http://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Macaroni

    We hope that you'll have a lot of greats times in Rome again.

    See you soon.

    Perrine and Marion.

    perrine.bayssat @ hotmail.fr
    marion.bayssat @ hotmail.fr

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  2. Fun blog!!! Nice reporting. New career potentially??

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  3. Be touristy and throw a coin in the fountain for me. And enjoy Paris.

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  4. "Live from Rome, it's the roving Jewish Athiest" -- Marc, this is great -- on so many levels.

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  5. Awesome post. (The scripted comment by "Perrine and Marion" is a nice touch) You are really good at this blogging thing...I can't believe you were reluctant to take the plunge.

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