Tuesday, May 14, 2013

Split Decision

I've spent a day now in Split, and it is definitely my favorite of the three destinations I've visited on Croatian coast.  Split is Croatia's second largest city in terms of population (the capital Zagreb is first), and the largest on the Dalmatian coast.   It is more than 4x the size of Dubrovnik (178,000 vs. 42,000), and it has a more energetic vibe.  There is also -- in my opinion -- more to see and do.  Frankly, I do not understand why Split is not a bigger tourist destination for Americans.  I think it is pretty great.

The center of Split is Diocletian's Palace.  Diocletian was the Roman emperor for decades around 300 A.D., and he built his palace here in Split.  Much of it is still intact, and the modern center of Split is built into it.  It's very cool to explore:

Underground in Diocletian's Palace


A sphinx dating from 1500 B.C. was brought from Egypt and flanks what used to be the entrance to Diocletian's mausoleum.  This is in the Peristyle, which used to be the central meeting place of the palace complex.  

View from near the top of the tower that was part of Diocletian's mausoleum -- which was converted to a cathedral in medieval times.  
Split is a seaside city and so, in addition to the historical buildings and sites, there are just beautiful views of the Adriatic almost everywhere you look:

Walking along the Riva, the sea-facing south side of the Palace.



Another highlight for me is the daily fish market.  Loved looking around here:



I also found the Split synagogue (not very easy to find) and got a little tour from my friend Albert.  I was the only visitor there.  Albert told me that there are 100 Jews in Split now.  They are not a religious bunch, but they do their best to keep the synagogue alive -- this includes meeting for Shabbat dinner at the synagogue every Friday night.  Albert said this is the third oldest active synagogue in Europe -- after the ones in Prague and Dubrovnik -- and was built in around 1520.  Albert confirmed what they told me last week in the Dubrovnik synagogue -- there is only one rabbi left in Croatia, and he resides in Zagreb.  This rabbi does come to the Split synagogue a few times per year, and the Split Jews hold a service then.  Here is a link to the synagogue's website (http://www.zost.hr/selected.php?id=1&jezik=EN), and here are some pics:



Got to go out for the evening.  More later.

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