Sunday, April 14, 2013

The Falafel Wars

You think that Apple and Samsung have a heated rivalry in the smartphone market?  Think that Coke and Pepsi are stiff competition for each other in cola sales?  Or that Mars and Hershey's were bitter enemies in the fabled Chocolate Wars of the early 20th century?  (I only mention that last one because one of my close friends at work and one of my brothers read this book about Mars v. Hershey (http://www.amazon.co.uk/The-Chocolate-Wars-Inside-Hershey/dp/000653239X), and I heard them talk about it ad nauseum for 3 years.  I want to see if they're reading this blog.)  Well, unless you've been strolling around Le Marais district in Paris, you ain't seen nothing.

In the winding streets of the largest historically Jewish section of Paris, there are 2 or 3 falafel shops that  are in the throes of an epic battle.  I saw it first-hand on Sunday.  And I wasn't the only one -- Parisians appear to care about their falafels.

First off, let me mention the crowds and energy.  This old Jewish section in Le Marais was absolutely hopping and was hecka vibrant.   There was even a klezmer band playing with 40 people standing around and listening.  Here are some pics outside of and around the top two falafel shops.



 But the heart and soul of the neighborhood sure seemed to be these two falafel shops:  Mi-Va-Mi (which you see above) and L'as Du Fallafel (where I ate).  L'as and Mi-Va-Mi occupy spaces that face each other on the same street.  Here's how close they are.  You can see the side of Mi-Va-Mi (not the store-front which claims it is "the best of the street") on the left, and the front of L'as on the right:


L'as is the industry leader.  It is the one that all the guide books, Paris foodie blogs, and articles talk about.  It is a destination for foodies in Paris.  It is even the one that Lenny Kravitz endorses (as L'As proudly advertises all over the shop).  And let me tell you that on this perfect sunny spring Sunday it was packed.  It is the single most crowded place (in terms of density) that I have seen in almost a week in Paris.  For example, there were more people standing in line outside of L'As to get a falafel to-go than there were in front of the Mona Lisa on Friday evening.  I'm serious.  Here's what it looked like inside:

 
This was mine.  You can't really see with perspective just how big it was! 

I only had the ability to eat one today.  And I think I have a few other things that I need to see in my last day+ in Paris.  So, I obviously can't weigh in on this debate.  That would not be fair to Mi-Va-Mi.  But I can say that the falafel at L'As was outstanding.  You should check out one or the other next time you're here -- for the experience as much as for the food.  

2 comments:

  1. Still waiting for a picture of a fountain???????

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  2. i can tell how big your falafel was. there's a kid's head in the background. I suppose he might have a really small head, but i'm betting on big falafel, regular head.

    also, would you say the falafel shop was as densely populated as Jersey?

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